Question 1

What size cycling gloves do I need?

Accepted Answer

Measure your hand circumference at the widest point across the palm, just below the knuckles, with your thumb excluded. Wrap a soft tape measure (or a piece of string against a ruler) snug but not compressing the hand. Match the result against the brand's chart: most brands size XS 6–7", S 7–7.5", M 7.5–8", L 8–9", XL 9–10". US brands like Giro and Pearl Izumi size true to that measurement; Italian brands often run a half-size small, so size up if you're between sizes on a Castelli or Sportful chart.

Question 2

Full-finger vs short-finger cycling gloves — which should I get?

Accepted Answer

Full-finger gloves protect your knuckles in a fall, keep hands warmer, and are the default for MTB, gravel, cold-weather commuting, and almost all kids riding. Short-finger 'mitts' end at the second knuckle and are favoured on the road for warm-weather rides where dexterity (shifting, fishing a snack out of a jersey pocket, using a phone) matters more than coverage. If you ride mixed terrain or only want to buy one pair, get the full-finger — you can always tolerate slightly warmer hands, but you can't conjure protection that isn't there.

Question 3

Are MTB gloves different from road gloves?

Accepted Answer

Yes, in three ways. MTB gloves are full-finger with a slim, low-profile padding so you keep bar feel for technical descents; road gloves are typically short-finger with thicker gel inserts at the base of the palm to absorb road buzz on long rides. MTB gloves often add a rubber knuckle bumper or a reinforced index finger for branch hits; road gloves prioritise breathability and a terry-cloth thumb for wiping sweat. A road glove on an MTB ride leaves your knuckles exposed; an MTB glove on a hot road ride is just sweaty — pick by where you actually spend your saddle time.

Question 4

Can padded gloves cause hand numbness?

Accepted Answer

They can, counter-intuitively. Numbness in the ring and little fingers is usually ulnar-nerve compression at the base of the palm; over-padding in the wrong spot makes it worse, not better. If your fingers are going numb, check the basics first — bar tape thickness, brake-hood position, saddle tilt (a nose-up saddle pushes weight onto the hands), and core strength on long rides. Then look at glove padding placement: thin inserts at the heel of the palm and outside the ulnar zone, not a thick generic foam pad over the whole palm. If numbness persists after a couple of rides with adjusted contact points, see a fit specialist before buying more gloves.

Question 5

Do kids really need cycling-specific gloves?

Accepted Answer

Yes — kids fall on their hands more than adults do, and gravel rash on a small palm ends the riding season faster than a sore knee does. Cycling-specific kids gloves (Woom TENS, Giro Bravo Junior, Pearl Izumi Jr.) add three things garden or work gloves don't: full-finger coverage with a grippy palm sized to a small hand, an adjustable hook-and-loop cuff so the glove doesn't roll back on impact, and a non-slip pull tab between two fingers for getting them on and off. Size by hand circumference — age bands are a rough guide only.

Question 6

What about winter cycling gloves?

Accepted Answer

Below roughly 15 °C / 60 °F, switch to a long-finger softshell glove with a brushed lining; below 5 °C / 40 °F, look at insulated split-finger ('lobster') or full-mitten designs that share finger warmth. Three details matter more than the headline insulation rating: a windproof back-of-hand panel (most numbness in cold is wind-chill, not cold itself), a long gauntlet cuff that overlaps your jacket sleeve, and a touchscreen-compatible thumb so you don't need to bare-hand your phone in the cold. Heated gloves (Bar Mitts, plus the glove inside) are a worthwhile upgrade for sub-zero commutes — finger warmers in your gloves beat thicker insulation.

Question 7

Are touchscreen-compatible cycling gloves worth the extra money?

Accepted Answer

On modern $40+ gloves, conductive thread on the thumb and index finger is essentially standard — you usually aren't paying extra. The benefit is real: you can check directions, dismiss a workout, or send a quick reply without de-gloving in cold or rain. The trade-offs are minor: conductive panels eventually wear, especially on the right thumb (most-used corner), and very thick winter gloves can be flaky on capacitive screens regardless of the conductive thread. If touchscreen reliability is critical, look for a glove that names the conductive system (Knit Touch, Vibram TouchTec) rather than a generic 'touchscreen compatible' line item.

Question 8

How often should I wash and replace cycling gloves?

Accepted Answer

Wash gloves the same way you wash a jersey — every couple of rides, or any time they're salt-stained from sweat. Cold water, gentle cycle, inside a mesh laundry bag, no fabric softener (it kills the synthetic palm's grip), and air-dry only. Tumble drying degrades the silicone print and the elastic at the cuff. Replace when you see the palm wearing thin (you'll feel hot spots before you see holes), the touchscreen thread fails, or the cuff stretches enough that the glove rotates on your hand. For an everyday pair, that's usually one to two seasons of regular riding.

Cycling Gloves — Sizing & Buying Guide

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What to look for when buying

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